Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. Any help would b great. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). Thanks again for your insights! Good That is not something I'd ignore. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. A couple of those and you should feel it getting better. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com 34K views 1 year ago Holley Sniper How to Set The IAC Idle air Control in 5 minutes or less. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. Hi I wish I had bought from you but I didn't find this site until now. If you use your handheld to go here: Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. Fortunately, I have an article that goes into this in some detail. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. I keep wondering how it was running so good with Any suggestions? That is not the way to go. Is there away to lean the idle out? Enjoy your Sniper! Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. It is simply for the benefit of the user. If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. An under-sized filter will allow part- throttle operation but fuel pressure will drop at WOT and run very lean - perhaps surge under power. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. We offer some tips to help with that. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. Or is there something else I should The "Gauge Text" is what would be shown on a 2-1/16 gauge or the Avenger handheld display. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Your comment doesn't imply any sort of problem that would make me give up on idle timing control. Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. Thank you very much. That's what you're seeing. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. Thank you so much for your follow-up. That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. Is that normal? The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. I looking for your expert opinion. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. I straightened that out, got it running and that's where it goes downhill. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. No problems with either cold or hot starts. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. any ideas? Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. Capability Range: Advanced Going back to what you said. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. Thanks! A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. when things aren't working and this provides just that. No air should be able to pass. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. Also if I give it a If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: Im having an issue with what I think is the Iac. Does that make sense to you? I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. All times are GMT-6. I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. Okay, try my method. This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. Your AFR is pegged lean. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. shut truck off. mail today. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? I installed Holley Sniper on three other Mavericks here in Brazil and the problem also exists.I did not make any changes to the parameters, only on Target AFR and the correction on the Idle Speed Curve chart. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. Thank you. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. If I cruise down the road at lets say 60 mph and lay into it, she will take off and go. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. This item: Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black $71.72 Holley Sniper EFI 870001 Throttle Position Sensor $34.60 Holley 860004-1 92MM Sniper Throttle BDY $223.93 Customers who viewed this item also viewed Page 1 of 1 Start over Holley EFI Idle Air Control (Iac) Valve Motor 30 13 offers from $79.56 My Sniper is 99% great! Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. Inj. it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. Thanks for the info Chris. It's all part of the adventure! This page was generated at 12:26 AM. So you installed your Holley Sniper. Learning to install these is great--you're about to embark on the next great adventure of advanced troubleshooting. It won't take much! I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. That Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. 90% of time with engine hot. Cl. That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. Definitely not 90. Hey Chris I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. no timing control. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. Should the iac% fluctuate? You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. I have changed my roc/tps to 7 from 15 but that only took me out of learn mode. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Any idea's? Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. The IAC reads 36 when at idle fully warmed up. Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. such high fuel pressure. It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. However, it is a good question so I thought I'd throw a few bits of info out there that I think might help.First, I believe that you may have a basic misunderstanding of what is being referred to sort of generically as AFR. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! Others might require 60 RPM. If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. Seems to be working. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. It's the same one that Holley puts in their Sniper Master Kits and I've never heard anyone with anything but good things to say about it. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. your IAC is at zero. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. I believe because the TPS is not registering. One of them might be faulty. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. If they are closed, check the primaries. P.S. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. There is no real mystery here. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Thanks in advance for any advice. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. have the system learn the higher speeds? If more info is needed just ask. :-). If so remove it. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! :-). Interesting situation you have. After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). Thank you. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. I keep doing that with the same result. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. Please let us know how this works out for you! If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. Thank you for your input. That is what I really respect about Holley. It wont fire up. Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. 63 bomb Not that I noticed. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. TPS% = 1 We have never had that problem with any of the units that we have shipped. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. Chris thank you for the info. Hello Chris. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. The throttle position should be zero. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. Thanks for any help. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. It may take a few tries. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies.
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